Pylsur - Icelandic hot dog with onions, mustard and remoulade (Reykjavik, Iceland)
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🇮🇸Reykjavik, Iceland

The Pylsur Pilgrimage

A lamb-and-pork hot dog loaded with raw onion, crispy fried onion, ketchup, sweet brown mustard and remoulade, from a tiny harbourside stand that's been serving since 1937. Bill Clinton queued here. You should too.

Photo: Street Cuisine
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Why this dish?

The Icelandic hot dog is not what you expect. The sausage is made from a blend of Icelandic lamb (free-range, grass-fed, no antibiotics - Iceland takes this seriously), pork and beef, giving it a slightly gamey, distinctly non-industrial flavour. It's boiled or steamed, nestled in a warm, soft bun, and loaded with "the works" ("eina med ollu"): raw white onion, crispy deep-fried onion, ketchup, a sweet brown mustard (pylsusinnep) and remoulade (a mayo-based sauce with sweet relish). It costs about 500 ISK - roughly three pounds - and the combination of sweet, sharp, crunchy and savoury is absurdly, unexpectedly perfect. Baejarins Beztu Pylsur, a tiny stand by Reykjavik's harbour, has been serving them since 1937 and regularly appears on "best street food in the world" lists.

The furthest pin on the map, and the most unlikely pilgrimage in the collection. Reykjavik is a city of 130,000 people on a volcanic island in the North Atlantic, with colourful corrugated-iron houses, geothermal swimming pools you can soak in outdoors in winter, and a landscape that looks like another planet ten minutes outside town. Flying in to eat a hot dog sounds absurd, and that's exactly the energy. The most northerly, most surprising, and arguably most fun pilgrimage on the entire site.

Our Picks

Baejarins Beztu Pylsur

Address
Tryggvagata 1, Reykjavik harbour (since 1937)
What to order
"Eina med ollu" - one with everything (raw onion, crispy onion, ketchup, sweet mustard, remoulade).
Book ahead
It's a street stand - walk up. There will be a queue. It moves fast.
Pro tip
Say "eina med ollu" (AY-na meth OL-lu) and you'll get the full works without navigating the toppings. Eat it in three bites while it's hot. Then get back in the queue for a second.

Hlollabatar

Reykjavik (city centre)

Reykjavik's other cult street-food spot - a grill shack some Icelanders prefer to the famous harbour stand. Less queue, more local.

What to order
A pylsur here too (for comparison), or their lamb burger. Finish with a kleinur (Icelandic twisted doughnut) from any nearby bakery.

Good to know

"Eina med ollu" means "one with everything" - that's the order. The lamb in the sausage is what makes it taste different from any hot dog you've had before. Iceland is expensive for almost everything except the hot dog, which is one of the cheapest meals on the island. Reykjavik is tiny and walkable; the harbour, Hallgrimskirkja church and Laugavegur are all within 15 minutes of each other. Keflavik airport is about 45 minutes from the city by bus. If you have time, the Blue Lagoon is on the way to/from the airport - book ahead.

Your day plan

Wheels up to eating the dish.

Outbound Flight goals - what you're aiming for

  1. 06:00Depart London Heathrow
  2. 08:00Land Keflavik
  3. 08:50Flybus into Reykjavik (45 min)
  4. 09:45Walk the harbour, Harpa concert hall, the seafront
  5. 10:30First pylsur at Baejarins Beztu - eina med ollu
  6. 11:00Hallgrimskirkja church (lift to the top for the view)
  7. 12:30Laugavegur shopping street, a coffee, an Icelandic wool shop
  8. 14:00A soak in a geothermal pool (Sundholl or Vesturbaejarlaug)
  9. 15:30Second pylsur, because one was never going to be enough
  10. 16:00One last harbour walk

Ready to go?

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