🇵🇱Krakow, Poland
The Żurek Pilgrimage
A tangy, savoury soup of fermented rye with smoked sausage and a halved boiled egg - often served inside a hollowed loaf you tear apart and eat. Sour, hearty, brilliant.
Why this dish?
Żurek is built on zakwas - a fermented rye-flour starter that gives the soup its signature gentle sourness - simmered with smoked sausage, marjoram, garlic and sometimes potato, then served with a boiled or poached egg. The showpiece version arrives in a round loaf of bread hollowed into a bowl, so you spoon up the soup and then tear into the soaked, savoury crust. It's tangy, warming and deeply Polish.
Krakow is the perfect setting: a beautifully preserved medieval city with Europe's largest market square, a castle on the hill, and an old Jewish quarter (Kazimierz) full of atmosphere. Add famously low prices and a 2h25 flight, and a one-day pilgrimage for a sour-rye soup in a bread bowl - washed down with a cold Polish beer or a cheeky vodka - is one of the best-value plans on the whole map.
Our Picks
Pod Wawelem
- Address
- ul. św. Gertrudy 26-29, Krakow
- What to order
- Żurek in a bread bowl, with a Polish beer; maybe pierogi on the side.
- Book ahead
- Worth booking - small and popular.
- Pro tip
- Eat the bread bowl - that's half the joy. Save room for a shot of żubrówka (bison-grass vodka) if you're feeling brave.
Bar Mleczny Pod Temidą
ul. Grodzka 43, Krakow
A classic Soviet-era "milk bar" still serving cheap, authentic Polish home cooking, cafeteria-style.
- What to order
- Żurek and pierogi for a few pounds - point at what you want.
Good to know
Żurek's sourness comes from fermented rye and is meant to be there - it's not "off." The bread-bowl version is the fun one but messier; ask if it's available. Milk bars (bary mleczne) are a cheap, authentic experience - point at what you want. Krakow's centre and Kazimierz are very walkable; the airport train reaches town in ~20 min.
Your day plan
Wheels up to wheels down.
Flight goals - what you're aiming for
- 07:00Depart London
- 10:25Land Krakow
- 11:00Train into the centre (20 min)
- 11:30The Main Market Square, the Cloth Hall, St Mary's Basilica
- 12:45Żurek lunch at Pod Wawelem
- 14:15Wawel Castle, then a wander through Kazimierz
- 16:00Coffee and a slice of sernik (Polish cheesecake)
- 17:00Train back to the airport
- 18:30Depart Krakow
- —Leave well-fed and ready for the journey