The Kranjska Klobasa Pilgrimage

Slovenia's protected Carniolan sausage - smoky, garlicky, a little peppery - with sauerkraut and mustard, in one of Europe's prettiest and least-crowded capitals.

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Why this dish?

Kranjska klobasa - the Carniolan sausage - is so specific that it holds Protected Geographical Indication status: pork and bacon, salt, garlic and pepper, lightly smoked, traditionally sold in pairs and gently simmered rather than fried. It's served simply with sauerkraut or sour turnip, mustard, fresh horseradish and bread. Honest, smoky, deeply satisfying - the taste of the Slovenian Alps' foothills.

The dish is reason enough, but Ljubljana is the real find: a tiny, walkable, green riverside capital with a castle on the hill, dragon bridges, café terraces along the Ljubljanica, and almost none of the crowds of its neighbours. Fly in, eat a protected sausage by the river, climb to the castle, and fly home having discovered somewhere most people never think to go for lunch.

Our Picks

Klobasarna

Address: Ciril-Metodov trg 15, Ljubljana
What to order: Kranjska klobasa with mustard, horseradish and bread (and try the jota, a bean-and-sauerkraut stew).
Book ahead: Small and casual - go off-peak.
Pro tip: It comes simmered, in a pair; eat it the local way with strong mustard and fresh-grated horseradish.

Gostilna Šestica

Slovenska cesta 40, Ljubljana

A long-running traditional Slovenian restaurant in the centre - the kind of room locals book for Sunday lunch.

What to order: The Carniolan sausage platter, or other Slovenian classics like štruklji and a glass of Slovenian wine.

Good to know

It's protected by name - the real Kranjska klobasa is made to a defined recipe and usually poached, not grilled. Slovenia makes very good wine that barely leaves the country; order local. Ljubljana's centre is pedestrianised, tiny and gorgeous; you won't need transport beyond the airport bus (~45 min).

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