🇪🇸Santiago de Compostela, Spain
The Pulpo Pilgrimage
Octopus boiled in a copper pot, snipped with scissors over a wooden plate, dressed with sea salt, sweet paprika and Galician olive oil. Eaten where Europe's oldest pilgrimage ends.
Why this dish?
Pulpo a feira (or pulpo á feira, "fair-style octopus") is Galician genius: octopus simmered in a copper pot until tender - the cook traditionally dunking it three times before letting it cook, to keep the skin intact - then snipped with scissors into coins over slices of boiled potato, and finished with coarse salt, pimentón (sweet or hot paprika) and a generous pour of olive oil.
There's a lovely symmetry to making this a Hungry Departure pilgrimage: Santiago de Compostela is the end point of the Camino, the great medieval walking pilgrimage. You can fly in, eat the dish that pilgrims have rewarded themselves with for centuries, stand in front of the cathedral, and be home by night - a one-day pilgrimage to the end of a thousand-year one.
Our Picks
O Gato Negro
- Address
- Rúa da Raíña s/n, Santiago de Compostela
- What to order
- Pulpo a feira, padrón peppers, and a bowl (cunca) of Ribeiro.
- Book ahead
- Small and cash-friendly; go early or expect to wait.
- Pro tip
- Drink the Ribeiro from the traditional white ceramic bowl, not a glass - that's the Galician way.
Mesón A Curtidoría
Rúa da Conga 2, Santiago de Compostela
A pulpería near the Mercado de Abastos where the octopus comes straight from the pot and the Galician classics are done with no fuss.
- What to order
- Octopus straight from the pot, plus empanada, pimientos de Padrón, and an Albariño if you fancy a white.
Good to know
The classic drink is young Ribeiro served in a ceramic cunca; Albariño is the famous Galician white if you'd rather. Galicia rains a lot - pack a layer. Flights are limited (mainly Ryanair from Stansted), so book early. The old town and cathedral are tightly walkable.
Your day plan
Wheels up to wheels down.
Flight goals - what you're aiming for
- 07:00Depart London
- 10:00Land Santiago
- 10:40Bus into the centre (20 min)
- 11:10The cathedral and the Praza do Obradoiro
- 12:30Pulpo a feira lunch at O Gato Negro
- 14:00Wander the granite old town; the Mercado de Abastos
- 15:30Coffee and a tarta de Santiago (almond cake)
- 16:30Bus back to the airport
- 18:00Depart Santiago
- —Leave well-fed and ready for the journey