🇨🇭Zurich, Switzerland
The Geschnetzeltes Pilgrimage
Tender sliced veal in a creamy white-wine and mushroom sauce, with a golden disc of rösti to soak up every drop. Zurich's most civilised lunch.
Why this dish?
Zürcher Geschnetzeltes is thin strips of veal (traditionally with kidney) quickly sautéed and bathed in a sauce of white wine, cream, stock and mushrooms. It's served with rösti - grated potato pressed and fried into a crisp golden cake - whose job is to mop the sauce. Comforting, refined and quietly luxurious, it's the dish Zurich quietly perfected.
This is the polished, prosperous side of Swiss cooking - less rustic than fondue, more dinner-jacket. The veal is delicate, the sauce is rich, the rösti is the kind of thing you'll dream about. Eaten in a wood-panelled Zurich Zunfthaus or guildhall restaurant, looking out at the lake and the Alps beyond, it's a lunch that justifies the airfare on its own.
Our Picks
Kronenhalle
- Address
- Rämistrasse 4, Zurich
- What to order
- Zürcher Geschnetzeltes with rösti; a Swiss Pinot Noir alongside.
- Book ahead
- Yes - it's iconic and busy; book.
- Pro tip
- Have a drink in the famous bar even if you only eat in the restaurant - the room is a piece of Zurich history, with Chagall and Picasso on the walls.
Zeughauskeller
Bahnhofstrasse 28a, Zurich
A vast, lively former arsenal near Paradeplatz, more casual and great value - long tables, big plates, local beer.
- What to order
- Geschnetzeltes with rösti, or a classic Swiss sausage platter, with a local beer.
Good to know
Zurich is one of Europe's priciest cities - the flight may cost less than lunch. The dish is sometimes made with veal kidney (Nierli); ask if you'd prefer it without. Trams are excellent and you can be lakeside minutes after landing.
Your day plan
Wheels up to wheels down.
Flight goals - what you're aiming for
- 07:30Depart London
- 10:15Land Zurich
- 10:45Train into the centre (12 min)
- 11:15Walk the Limmat river and the old town (Niederdorf)
- 12:45Geschnetzeltes lunch at the Kronenhalle or Zeughauskeller
- 14:30Lake Zurich promenade; a boat if the sun's out
- 16:00Coffee and a Luxemburgerli (tiny macaron) at Sprüngli
- 17:00Train back to the airport
- 18:30Depart Zurich
- —Leave well-fed and ready for the journey