The Karađorđeva Pilgrimage

A veal cutlet rolled around oozing kajmak cream, breaded and fried golden, then sliced so the molten centre spills out. They call it "the maiden's dream." You'll see why.

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Why this dish?

Karađorđeva šnicla is a 20th-century Serbian invention and an unapologetic showpiece: a thin slab of veal (or pork) wrapped around a generous filling of kajmak - a rich, slightly tangy clotted-cream-meets-soft-cheese that's a Balkan staple - then rolled, breaded and deep-fried until golden. Cut into it and the kajmak oozes out. It's usually served with tartar sauce and fries, and it is gloriously over the top.

Belgrade is the perfect host for it: a gritty, energetic, fast-changing capital at the meeting of the Sava and Danube, with a riverside fortress, a famous nightlife and prices that feel like a bargain. The food is hearty and meat-forward, the rakija (fruit brandy) flows, and a long lunch over a Karađorđeva in a Skadarlija tavern, with live music drifting through, is a proper Balkan experience most travellers never seek out.

Our Picks

Tri Šešira

Address: Skadarska 29, Belgrade
What to order: Karađorđeva šnicla with tartar sauce and fries, and a shot of rakija to start; live tamburica music most evenings.
Book ahead: Worth booking - small and popular.
Pro tip: Start with a rakija (the fruit brandy is the local aperitif) and pace the kajmak - this dish is very rich.

Manufaktura

Kralja Petra 13-15, Belgrade

A bustling central Serbian restaurant with red umbrellas, popular for the full sweep of Serbian classics.

What to order: Karađorđeva, or a mixed grill (ćevapi, pljeskavica) if you want the broader Serbian meat feast; plenty of kajmak and ajvar (red pepper relish) on the side.

Good to know

Kajmak is the rich dairy spread at the heart of the dish - and of Serbian cooking generally; you'll meet it everywhere. The dish is very rich; one is plenty. Rakija (fruit brandy) is the customary aperitif and digestif. Skadarlija is Belgrade's cobbled bohemian street; the Kalemegdan fortress over the rivers is the city's highlight. Serbia uses the dinar, not the euro.

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