The Pesto Pilgrimage

Basil pounded in a marble mortar with pine nuts, garlic and two cheeses, tossed through twisty trofie with potato and green beans. Forget the jar - this is the original.

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Why this dish?

Pesto alla genovese is Genoa's gift to the world, and the city is fiercely protective of it: small-leaf Ligurian basil, Mediterranean pine nuts, garlic, Parmigiano and Pecorino, and good olive oil, traditionally ground with a pestle in a marble mortar (pesto means "pounded"). The classic Genoese way to serve it is with trofie - short, hand-rolled twists - plus boiled potato and green beans tossed through.

The flavour is bright, herbal and alive in a way no supermarket tub gets near. Genoa even hosts a Pesto World Championship, mortar and all. Eat it here, in a Ligurian trattoria a few streets back from the old port, and you'll understand why locals roll their eyes at what the rest of us call pesto.

Our Picks

Il Genovese

Address: Via Galata 35r, Genoa
What to order: Trofie al pesto (mortar-made) and a glass of Ligurian white (Vermentino or Pigato).
Book ahead: Yes - it's a destination for pesto pilgrims; book.
Pro tip: If they offer pesto made fresh in the mortar, take it - the texture is the whole point.

Trattoria da Maria

Vico Testadoro 14r, Genoa

A beloved, bustling, cheap canteen in the old town with shared tables, handwritten menus and queues that move quickly.

What to order: The pasta al pesto of the day plus whatever's on the board.

Good to know

Real pesto is uncooked and bright green - if it's dull and oily, it's been sitting. Genoa's old town is a dense maze (the caruggi); the focaccia here is also world-class, so grab some warm from a bakery. The airport is close to the centre but flight options are limited - book early.

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